Saudi

Tourism in Jeddah - How to spend a weekend in Jeddah like a local?

Tourism in Jeddah - How to spend a weekend in Jeddah like a local?

Jeddah is the capital of the Western region of Saudi Arabia and it is the Gate to Mecca because it is the main stop for pilgrims heading to Mecca for their once in a life time Islamic pilgrimage, Hajj. Although, Hajj is one of the main reasons that impacted the growth in Jeddah, the trade that took place there and it's great geographical location on the Red Sea, made Jeddah an international hub. This post will give you an idea on how to spend your weekend in Jeddah like a local especially with the growing tourism in Jeddah.

The post includes:

  • Dress code for women in Jeddah

  • Things to do in Jeddah

  • Accommodations in Jeddah (5 stars, midrange and budget).

  • Best Restaurants in Jeddah for (breakfast, lunch and dinner).

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What to expect when you are going to Hajj for the first time?

 What to expect when you are going to Hajj for the first time? 

What to expect when you are going to Hajj for the first time? 

Last month, I got a request from another travel blogger to contribute in a list he compiled about sacred walks and pilgrimages around the world. The request was to write a little paragraph about my personal experience to the Islamic pilgrimage: Hajj. When I was writing it, it occurred to me that I have never actually shared this on the blog. My pilgrimage happened before my travel blogging days and I just never thought of sharing it before. After writing the 200 words I felt like I still had so much left I wanted to write about to give more details about my experience. I know other Muslim blogger have detailed Hajj and Ummrah guide like the Muslim Travel Girl, but I think Hajj first timers or people curious about this Islamic spiritual journey might find this post useful.

Content: 


How I went to Hajj

I went to Hajj back in 2009. I was coming out of a rough patch in my life. My mom wanted to cheer me up and reward me, so she and my uncles decided to gift me with Hajj. Of course I would not have gone at 21 years of age otherwise. One of the main conditions for Hajj is for the cost to be from savings and not a debt. It's God's way of making sure that we do it when we are truly able financially and physically. Funnily, earlier that year, I did think to myself "it would be nice to go to Hajj since it was going to fall in the winter months" and by Gods grace everything aligned for it to happen. I was truly blessed. Most people have to save up and plan for years before they get this privilege. The weather was not as nice as I hoped for because Mecca is located in a valley and the weather is consistent year round. Sometimes it rains, but that is not the norm. It is usually hot year round, but when I went that winter there was some nice breeze.

Even with the heat, the mosquito bites and the crowd, my soul was content and filled with comfort. 

Important Haj and Ummrah Arabic Terminology

 Me wearing my Ehram. 

Me wearing my Ehram. 

Before I go into more details about my Hajj, I wanted to tell you a few basic terms that you might have heard of or read when reading about the subject. I will be using some of them through out this post too just because the English equivalent is usually an explanatory sentence rather than a word. 

- Miqat ميقات is the geographical location where you make your intention to do the Hajj and where you start the journey. 

-Ehram إحرام is used as a verb and as a noun in Arabic. The person who intend to do hajj is entering a state of Ehram. The clothing worn during Umrrah and Hajj is also refered to as Ehram.

- Tawaf طواف is one of the actions of Umrrah and Hajj, where a person circulate the Kabba seven times.

- Sa'e سعي is another action of Umrrah and Hajj and it is the walk between the two mountains, Mount Safa and Mount Marwa, seven times. (Only a tiny bit of the mountains remain now though)

- Taqseer تقصير is the last action of Umrrah and Hajj that indicate cutting the nails and the hair after everything is completed. 

- Hajji حجي A man who has been to Hajj. 

- Hajjiah or Hajjah حجية/حجة A lady who has been to Hajj! So, yours truly here is a Hajjiah. 

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My Hajj story

 Photo of Kabba taken in 2008

Photo of Kabba taken in 2008

I headed to Hajj from East of Saudi with an organised group specialising in Hajj by Bus. The journey was almost two days of driving and stopping for food and bathrooms. The bathrooms on the roads were absolutely appalling. I tried to sleep most of the time even though the lady who sat beside was not pleased that I was not chatty. It was the first time I met the group of ladies, but in between the stops, I started getting to know them until we become friends by the time we arrived to Mecca.

Most people make their journey faster and more comfortable by flying directly to Jeddah Airport and taking a car to Mecca. Going by bus meant that we were going to stop at the Miqat in the city of Taif to make our intention for pilgrimage and to change from our black abayas into our white Ehram. In East of Saudi, the ladies usually get their Ehrams sewn especially for the journey. I got two made and switched between them. Although, I wished I had a third one with me! 

We finally arrived to Mecca and I parted ways from the friends I made on the bus because we all had shared room previously assigned for us. There were three other ladies that I shared the room with. I felt a little awkward the first night, but then we all hit it off the next day and I am still in touch with those ladies. I call them my Hajj sisters.

The first task was to do the Ummrah, which is a ritual part of Hajj and can be done on its on year round. I was with a very big group, but we were split to smaller groups of less than 8 ladies and were accompanied by a male and a female helpers that guided us through it all and made sure we preform the tasks correctly and comfortably. Preforming Tawaf, Sa'e and the short prayer took us about three hours. Thankfully, we did it after midnight when the weather was cool. It really makes a difference when the sun is not blasting its heat fully. A lot of the Ummrah and Hajj tasks come from the story of Prophet Ibrahim, his wife Hajar and their son Ismail, which I find very fascinating. The Sa'e comes from the walk that Hajar did looking for water between the two mountains.  

 Main Sights during Hajj. Usually Buses transport you in between most of them rather than walking. 

Main Sights during Hajj. Usually Buses transport you in between most of them rather than walking. 

On the 9th day of the 12th Arabic month "Thu Al Hujah", the challenge started when we headed to Mount Arafat to spend the day in supplications and prayer. All I remember now is my feeling towards it all. The group organisers took care of all the logistics, which gave me and the ladies with me all the time to focus on getting closer to God. 

After sunset, we all headed to Muzdalefah, which is another sight that pilgrims must stay in and spend the night there. The floor mattresses were set there and the time was spent between worship and socialising. There were a few fans in the tents, but it was really warm, so I started getting quickly agitated. One of the conditions of Ehram however is to stay as calm as possible because arguments can break the Ehram. It was a real test! 

 Zam Zam Water when it used to be good back in 2008 and 2009

Zam Zam Water when it used to be good back in 2008 and 2009

The next morning on the 10th, we walked to the Mina area to do more Hajj tasks such as throwing rocks at three columns. This is another action that we are reacting from the Prophet Ibrahim's story. The devil showed up three times to him at three different locations and the prophet threw rocks at him. This part was the hardest part for me hands down. I think I even cried a little. The area of each column is sort of small even with the new rebuilt area and the crowd was TOO MUCH, but by the grace of God and help from others I managed it. The following ritual was to do the sacrifice. Females give this responsibility to the group organisers and it's usually done for us. The sacrificed animal's meat is given to the poor. This also follows a story from prophet Ibrahim. He dreamt that God told him to sacrifice his son and although he was terrified he was willing to do it for the sake of God, but God sent a sheep to him to be sacrificed instead. There are so many donation programs to insure that the sacrificed animals go to people in need. There are also rules to ensure the well fair of the animal before this is done.

The last ritual is Taqseer, where we cut our nails and tiny bit of hair. Everything has to be done in that specific order. When all of this is done then that's it. The Ehram ends and Eid celebrations start.

It felt AMAZING! It went by really fast and although a little tiring, but I got a surge of spiritual energy that kept me going for months. 

Sadly, the cost of Hajj has doubled since I have gone and I am not sure I will be able to afford another one any time soon, but I would love to go again especially that I am older and I have a stronger appreciations for many things. It's a once in a life obligation, but we are allowed to go again. The Saudi government is trying to make it fair for other nationalities as well and limiting Saudi nationals to go to Hajj every five years.          

What to pack for Hajj?

When I was packing for Hajj, I had so much advice from relatives, who have been to hajj, but I still wish I packed a few more essentials, so here is a list that can help you plan your luggage better. Keep in mind that you would need two main, light, white outfits, good footwear, a water bottle and scent free toiletries and creams. Most importantly, you have to take some mosquito repellent, but please the Islamic ruling about this. It might not be allowed. All I remember is that the mosquitos really feasted on me when I was in Mena! You also need some seriously comfortable socks or stick on soles or something since you won't be able to wear your shoes inside the mosque and holy areas espically during Tawaf and Sae.  

Where to Stay in Mecca?

If you are going to Hajj, chances are that you are going with a group or a caravan that would have arranged this for you and it's actually better to let them take care of accommodations and transportations. Even Saudis themselves go with a group that arranges it all.

If you are going to Ummrah however, this can be done on your own. My mother and I have done it multiple times and we just booked a hotel that is a walking distance from the "Haram" Kabaa court. It is easily done on Booking.com, but sadly like any other place, there are busy seasons such as Ramadan and the Hajj month. The off season is much cheaper, but you can only do that for the Ummrah. 

Booking.com

Useful Resources for Hajj and Ummrah

Please note, different branches of Islam, might have different rules and slight variations, so double check the sources you need. The Islamic Mobility online library gives you free books and articles to download Duas website have lists of other relevant information and supplications.  

Hajj (The Pilgrimage)
By Dr Ali Shariati - XKP
Secrets of the Hajj
By Ayatullah Shaykh Husain Mazaheri
Hajj & Umrah: Journey of Life Time - A Complete Guide for Hajj & Umrah
By Fisabilillah Organization Authenticate Ulama's Organization
The Hajj: Pilgrimage in Islam
Cambridge University Press

Next Stop After Hajj: Medina

Coming all the way to Mecca usually means a quick visit to Madinah, the city where the prophet is buried. It is super crowded after Hajj because everyone has the same idea, but if you visit it outside of the Hajj and Ramadan times, it's a little quieter. It's never empty especially in the ladies section since they are usually given a smaller section than the men, but it always warms my soul going there. My mother and I usually stay in close proximity to the prophet's mosque and walk from the hotel to the mosque. You can watch the video below of the last time I went two years ago.   

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Over to you: Are you planning your first Hajj? Have you been to Umrah? Tell me about your experiences in the comments below! 


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GOING TO HAJJ FOR THE FIRST TIME
GOING TO HAJJ FOR THE FIRST TIME

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Medina: The Legacy of Prophet Mohammad and Islam

Medina.jpg

When Prophet Mohammad migrated to Madinah, he could finally breath a new dawn. The people of Madinah gave him a warm welcome with a soft drum melody celebrating him and singing “The full moon has rose upon us.” The song was filled with love and is still sung until today 1450 years later. The migration to Madinah was a major step in the Islamic history and it was the start of the Arabic (Hijri) calendar. The house of the prophet extended as a mosque and a gathering point to the Muslims of that time. It is known as Al Haram Al Nabwi. It is visited by Muslims worldwide year round. When my mother told me about her wish to visit the prophet, I did not jump at the idea right away. I did not feel ready spiritually to go meet the prophet, but it has been few years since my mother and I went so I gave in and I am very glad I did. Being that close to the prophet's soul was very comforting. I felt a strange sense of content being in the presence of where the prophet lived, prayed, lectured and taught. The roof was kind of open so you get a breeze, some sunshine and an earful of birds singing in union. I was surrounded by many older ladies who probably had to wait a lifetime to get the special religious visiting visa. They were whispering their wishes to the prophet with eyes full of tears and longing. It was very spiritual. I wished we had more time, but we were shuffled to the other area after just few minutes next to the prophet. 

Note: Cameras are not allowed inside the holy mosque of the prophet unless you have a press permission, but Camera phones are allowed. They usually check your bag before entering inside. 


Picture's of Prophet Mohammad's Mosque in Medina

Things to do in Medina

The mosque undertook a number of renovations and extensions. The Ottomans did major design changes and then the Saudi government made it its responsibility afterwards. The mosque is due a new extensions in the coming years. All the current hotels facing the mosque are going to be demolished. There will be a metro station reaching the mosque instead. Around the mosque, there is a cemetery known as Albaqiee. It is been really hard to go to that area on this visit, but it is the burial ground of many holy personalities.

The legacy of the Madinah extends beyonds the prophet's main mosque. There are few other mosques that are historically important, such as, Qiba mosque, which is known for its four minarets and Al Qabilatin mosque, where the direction of the qibla (prayer direction) was the direction of Al Aqsa mosque in Palestine before the prayer direction was changed towards Macca. Sadly, those two mosques are not the original structure and they replaced the old ones. They are still nice to visit and they are built in a blessed area. There is also the seven mosques area. Previously there were seven mini mosques, but now there is a huge new mosque in the centre.     

I ended my Madinah tour with a visit to Hamza Ibn Abd Al Mutalib, the uncle of prophet Mohammad and one of his biggest supporter. He was a strong force in the first Islamic battle ( Battle Bader) and his elimination of many enemies of the prophet caused him his life in the next battle. In Battle Auhd, many wanted revenge of him. Someone called Wahsi Ibn Harab was promised his freedom upon killing Hamza. The battle was going as planned by the prophet, but midway some of the fighters derailed from the plan and Wahsi Ibn Harab took that chance and went for his kill. Hamza was not only killed, but his liver was pulled out by a women called Hind who chewed on his liver. That fate made the prophet cry and he said that visiting his uncle is as important as visiting him. 

Buy some Medina Dates: 

Where to stay in Medina, Saudi? 

When my mother and I visit Medina, we usually choose one of the hotels that are right outside of the prophet's mosque to avoid commuting and getting taxis. Those hotels are usually five minutes walk away like Dar Al Taqwa. 

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Packing for a visit to Medina, Saudi Arabia

Unlike going to Hajj and Ummrah in Mecca, you don't wear white when you are visiting the holy mosque of the prophet. Most women dress in a black abaya and a scarf. Depending on some nationalities and culture, you will see bright coloured abayas as well. I just wore what I wear in the rest of Saudi, which is my black abaya, black headscarf and comfortable shoes. You will have to take your shoes off before entering the holy mosque, so you might want to bring a reusable bag to put them in it. 

More posts from Saudi: 

Old Doors in Jeddah, Saudi

The first thing that caught my attention in Historic Jeddah was the doors. I found these to be rustic and pretty. I thought I will share them with you. Which one is your favourite?  

Old Houses in Jeddah

Following the Historic Jeddah post, this one is to take you further inside on of the renovated Hijazi houses such as Ba'ashen house and Al Saloom house. There is also Nassif house in the area, but it was sadly closed at that time of the day. Ba'ashn house was converted into three galleries, but Al Saloom house was returned to its original state (more about it below!). I also got to see the building for the House of Traditional Arts in Jeddah. 

Al Saloom house was built in 1880. In 2014, the house was refurbished and renovated by a private enterprise called "Jeddah, Our Days of Bliss Residence." The house is 497 square meters and has four floors. It was really cool going there and seeing the interior design of the olden days. It must have been lavish back then. 

Historic Jeddah

When I visited Jeddah, I was really eager to go see the Historic area known as Al Balad. I made the mistake of going there between 11 to 1. It was March, so the weather was good, but most places don't open till 4 or 5pm. They also have few activities on the weekend, so keep that in mind when you are planning your visit. I still got to walk around and photograph the surroundings. It was empty and quiet. I met two people who volunteered to show me around out of the kindness of their heart when they saw my confused looks. I was very thankful. It made the experience richer. A number of buildings are being renovated. It was nice to see that part of town. I noticed that the Architectural style was inspired from Egypt (Mamluk) and Turkey. Below are some of the photos I snapped there. Two more posts about the same day are coming up this week. 

Must Visit Art Galleries in Jeddah

In the past few years, the artistic scene in Saudi and the Gulf region has been getting more recognition and  attention. Thanks to many efforts from Art galleries, individuals and books such as Contemporary Kingdom: The Saudi Art Scene Now. I was very excited to visit Jeddah earlier this week to checkout some of the galleries I have been following on social media. Thank you to Saudi Art Guide as well for the recommendations when I arrived. I managed to visit four galleries. 

I started with the Saudi Art Council. Their current exhibition is called "Earth and Ever After." I loved how big the space is and the selected displayed works. They were all unusual and felt original to me. 

Then went to Hafiz Gallery. It was a solo exhibition for the artist Mounirah Mosly. Her work was lovely and done on various types of mediums. The gallery was small and could be completed in half an hour. 

Afterwards, I went to Athar Gallery. The space was big. It was the solo gallery of Ayman Yossri Daydban named "Give Me the Light". It was really good to see his work from early years to more current pieces. It was presented nicely and I liked the dark room and the flashlight idea. Outside the exhibition space in the staircase leading to the roof, I found Momad Ink work.

All three galleries were in close proximity from each other by car. It's not really possible to walk from one to the other sadly, but I would suggest finding a driver to take you to all of them.

I ended the day, with the newly opened Rochan Gallery and the solo exhibition of Princess Hayfa Bint Abdullah. There was a collection of works by HRH. Some were different and inventive. It was good to see various styles and techniques. 

Princess Hayfa Bint Abdullah Exhibition
The starting point by Princess Hayfa Bint Abdullah
 Najla by Princess Hayfa Bint Abdullah 

Najla by Princess Hayfa Bint Abdullah 

 Faces from Childhood by Princess Hayfa Bint Abdullah 

Faces from Childhood by Princess Hayfa Bint Abdullah 

PostCard Painting

It was a day filled with all sorts of beautiful art and inspiration. I really enjoyed visiting all four gallery. Art has a way of fulfilling me.